Marseille
(in English also Marseilles
, ; ; locally ; in Occitan Marselha
or Marsiho
pronounced , formerly known as Massalia
(from Greek: ?assa??a), is the second city of France. It forms the third-largest metropolitan area, after those of Paris and Lyon, with a population recorded to be 1,516,340 at the 1999 census and estimated to be 1,605,000 in 2007. Located on the south east coast of France on the Mediterranean Sea, Marseille is France's largest commercial port. Marseille is the administrative capital (préfecture de région
) of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region, as well as the administrative capital (préfecture départementale
) of the Bouches-du-Rhône department. Its inhabitants are called Marseillais
.
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OLYMPIQUE DE MARSEILLE TICKETS
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Geography
thumb
Marseille is the most populous
commune in France after Paris and is the centre of the third largest
metropolitan area in France. To the east, starting in the small fishing village of Callelongue on the outskirts of Marseille and stretching as far as
Cassis, are the
Calanques, a rugged coastal area interspersed with small
fjords. Further east still are the
Sainte-Baume, a mountain ridge rising from a forest of
deciduous trees, the town of
Toulon and the
French Riviera. To the north of Marseille, beyond the low
Garlaban and Etoile
mountain ranges, is the
Mont Sainte Victoire. To the west of Marseille is the former artists' colony of
l'Estaque; further west are the
Côte Bleue, the
Gulf of Lion and the
Camargue region in the
Rhône delta. The
airport lies to the north west of the city at
Marignane on the
Etang de Berre.
thumb
The city's main thoroughfare, the wide boulevard called the
Canebière, stretches eastward from the
Old Port (Vieux Port) to the
Réformés
quarter. Two large forts flank the entrance to the Old Port - Fort
Saint-Nicolas on the south side and
Fort Saint-Jean on the north. Further out in the Bay of Marseille is the
Frioul archipelago which comprises four islands, one of which, If, is the location of
Château d'If, made famous by the
Dumas novel
The Count of Monte Cristo
. The main commercial centre of the city intersects with the Canebière at rue St Ferréol and the Centre Bourse (the main
shopping mall). The centre of Marseille has several pedestrianised zones, most notably rue St Ferréol, Cours Julien near the Music Conservatory, the Cours Honoré-d'Estienne-d'Orves off the Old Port and the area around the Hôtel de Ville. To the south east of central Marseille in the 6th arrondissement are the Prefecture and the monumental fountain of Place Castellane, an important bus and metro interchange. To the south west are the hills of the 7th arrondissement, dominated by the
basilica of
Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. The railway station -
Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles - is north of the Centre Bourse in the 1st arrondissement; it is linked by the Boulevard d'Athènes to the Canebière.
Climate
Marseille has a
Mediterranean climate, with mild, humid winters and hot, dry summers. January and February are the coldest months, averaging temperatures of around 8 to 9 °C. July and August are the hottest months. The mean summer temperature is around 23 to 24 °C (75 °F). In July the average maximum temperature is around 30°C.
[1]
Marseille is known for the
Mistral, a harsh cold wind originating in the
Rhône valley that occurs mostly in winter and spring. Less frequent is the
Sirocco, a hot sand-bearing wind, coming from the
Sahara Desert.
History
Prehistory and classical antiquity
thumb towards
Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde
Humans have inhabited Marseille and its environs for almost 30,000 years:
palaeolithic cave paintings in the underwater
Cosquer cave near the
calanque of Morgiou date back to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC; and very recent excavations near the railway station have unearthed
neolithic brick habitations from around 6,000 BC.
[3] [4]
Marseille, the oldest city of France, was founded in
600 BC by Greeks from
Phocaea (as mentioned by
Thucydides Bk1,13) as a trading port under the name ?assa??a (
Massalia
; see also
List of traditional Greek place names). The precise circumstances and date of founding remain obscure, but nevertheless a legend survives. Protis, while exploring for a new trading outpost or
emporion
for Phocaea, discovered the Mediterranean
cove of the Lacydon, fed by a freshwater stream and protected by two rocky
promontories.
[5] Protis was invited inland to a banquet held by the chief of the local
Ligurian tribe for suitors seeking the hand of his daughter Gyptis in marriage. At the end of the banquet, Gyptis presented the ceremonial cup of wine to Protis, indicating her unequivocal choice. Following their marriage, they moved to the hill just to the north of the Lacydon; and from this settlement grew Massalia.
Massalia was one of the first Greek ports in
Western Europe,
[6] growing to a population of over 1000. It was the first settlement given city status in France. Facing an opposing alliance of the
Etruscans,
Carthage and the
Celts, the
Greek colony allied itself with the expanding
Roman Republic for protection. This protectionist association brought aid in the event of future attacks, and perhaps equally important, it also brought the people of Massalia into the complex Roman market. The city thrived by acting as a link between inland Gaul, hungry for Roman goods and wine (which Massalia was steadily exporting by
500 BC),
[7] and Rome's insatiable need for new products and slaves. Under this arrangement the city maintained its independence until the rise of
Julius Caesar, when it joined the losing side (
Pompey and the
optimates) in
civil war, and lost its independence in
49 BC.
It was the site of a
siege and naval battle, after which the fleet was confiscated by the Roman authorities. During
Roman times the city was called
Massilia
. It was the home port of
Pytheas. Most of the archaeological remnants of the original Greek settlement were replaced by later Roman additions.
Marseille adapted well to its new status under Rome. During the
Roman era, the city was controlled by a directory of 15 selected "first" among 600 senators. Three of them had the preeminence and the essence of the
executive power. The city's laws amongst other things forbade the drinking of wine by women and allowed, by a vote of the senators, assistance to allow a person to commit suicide.
It was during this time that
Christianity first appeared in Marseille, as evidenced by
catacombs above the harbour and records of
Roman martyrs.
[8] According to
provencal tradition,
Mary Magdalen evangelised Marseille with her brother
Lazarus. The
diocese of Marseille was set up in the
first century AD (it became the
Archdiocese of Marseille in 1948).
Middle Ages and Renaissance
thumb
With
the decline of the Roman Empire, the town fell into the hands of the
Visigoths. Eventually Frankish kings succeeded in taking the town in the mid sixth century. Emperor
Charlemagne and the
Carolingian dynasty granted civic power to Marseille, which remained a major French trading port until the
medieval period. The city regained much of its wealth and trading power when it was revived in the tenth century by the counts of Provence. In 1262, the city revolted under
Bonifaci VI de Castellana and Hugues des Baux, cousin of
Barral des Baux, against the rule of the
Angevins but was put down by
Charles I.
[9] [10] In 1348, the city suffered terribly from the
bubonic plague, which continued to strike intermittently until 1361. As a major port, it is believed Marseille was one of the first places in France to encounter the epidemic, and some 15,000 people died in a city that had a population of 25,000 during its period of economic prosperity in the previous century.
[11] The city's fortunes declined still further when it was sacked and pillaged by the
Aragonese in 1423.
thumb of the
Knights Hospitaller of St John [12] and the 15C tower of
René I.
Marseille's population and trading status soon recovered and in 1437, the Count of
Provence René of Anjou, who succeeded his father
Louis II of Anjou as King of
Sicily and Duke of
Anjou, arrived in Marseille and established it as France's most fortified settlement outside of Paris.
[13] He helped raise the status of the town to a city and allowed certain privileges to be granted to it. Marseille was then used by the
Duke of Anjou as a strategic maritime base to reconquer his
kingdom of Sicily. King René, who wished to equip the entrance of the port with a solid defense, decided to build on the ruins of the old Maubert tower and to establish a series of ramparts guarding the harbour. Jean Pardo, engineer, conceived the plans and Jehan Robert, mason of Tarascon, carried out the work. The construction of the new city defenses took place between 1447 and 1453.
[14]
Trading in Marseille also flourished as the Guild began to establish a position of power within the merchants of the city. Notably, René also founded the Corporation of Fisherman.
Marseille was united with
Provence in 1481 and then incorporated in France the following year, but soon acquired a reputation for rebelling against the
central government.
[15] Some 30 years after its incorporation,
Francis I visited Marseille, drawn by his curiosity to see a
rhinoceros that King
Manuel I of Portugal was sending to Pope
Leo X, but which had been
shipwrecked on the Île d'If. As a result of this visit, the fortress of
Château d'If was constructed; this did little to prevent Marseille being placed under siege by the army of the
Holy Roman Empire a few years later.
Towards the end of the sixteenth century Marseille suffered yet another outbreak of the plague; the hospital of the Hôtel-Dieu was founded soon afterwards. A century later more troubles were in store: King
Louis XIV himself had to descend upon Marseille, at the head of his army, in order to quash a local uprising against the governor.
[16]
As a consequence, the two forts of Saint-Jean and Saint-Nicholas were erected above the harbour and a large
fleet and
arsenal were established in the harbour itself.
18th and 19th centuries
thumb Over the course of the eighteenth century, the port's defences were improved and Marseille became more important as France's leading military port in the Mediterranean. In 1720, the last
Great Plague of Marseille, a form of the
Black Death, killed 100,000 people in the city and the surrounding provinces.
[17] Jean-Baptiste Grosson, royal notary, wrote from 1770 to 1791 the historical Almanac of Marseille, published as
Recueil des antiquités et des monuments marseillais qui peuvent intéresser l’histoire et les arts
, ("Collection of antiquities and Marseilles monuments which can interest history and the arts"), which for a long time was the primary resource on the history of the monuments of the city.
The local population enthusiastically embraced the
French Revolution and sent 500 volunteers to Paris in 1792 to defend the revolutionary government; their rallying call to revolution, sung on their march from Marseille to Paris, became known as
La Marseillaise
, now the
national anthem of France.
During the nineteenth century the city was the site of industrial innovations and a growth in manufacturing. The rise of the
French Empire and the conquests of France from 1830 onward (notably
Algeria) stimulated the
maritime trade and raised the prosperity of the city. Maritime opportunities also increased with the opening of the
Suez Canal in 1869.
[18] This period in Marseille's history is reflected in many of its monuments, such as the
Napoleonic obelisk at Mazargues and the
royal triumphal arch on the Place Jules Guesde.
20th century
thumb
During the first half of the twentieth century, Marseille celebrated its 'port of the empire' status through the colonial exhibitions of
1906 and
1922; the monumental staircase of the
railway station, glorifying
French colonial conquests, dates from then. In 1934
Alexander I of Yugoslavia arrived at the port to meet with the French
foreign minister Louis Barthou. He was assassinated there by
Vlada Georgieff.
During
World War II, Marseille was bombed by the
German and the
Italian forces in 1940. The city was occupied by Germans from November 1942 to August 1944. The Old Port was bombed in
1944 by the
Allies to prepare for liberation of France.
After the war much of the city was rebuilt during the 1950s. The governments of
East Germany,
West Germany and Italy paid massive
reparations, plus
compound interest, to compensate civilians killed, injured or left homeless or destitute as a result of the war.
From the 1950s onward, the city served as an entrance port for over a million immigrants to France. In 1962 there was a large influx from the newly independent
Algeria, including around 150,000 returned Algerian settlers (
pieds-noirs
).
[19] Many immigrants have stayed and given the city a French-African quarter with a large market.
After the
oil crisis of 1973 and an
economic downturn, Marseille saw an increase in crime and higher levels of poverty. The city has worked to combat these problems, and through plans from the AT in Paris and funds from the
European Union, the city has developed a modern and advanced economy based on high technology manufacturing,
oil refining and service sector employment.
Economy
right
Historically, the economy of Marseille was dominated by its role as a port of the
French Empire, linking the
North African colonies of
Algeria,
Morocco and
Tunisia with
metropolitan France. The Old Port was replaced as the main port for trade by the Port de la Joliette during the
Second Empire and now contains restaurants, offices, bars and hotels and functions mostly as a private marina. The majority of the port and docks, which experienced decline in the 1970s after the oil crisis, have been recently redeveloped with funds from the
European Union.
Fishing, however, remains important in Marseille and the food economy of Marseille is still dominated by the local catch, and a daily fish market is still held on the Quai des Belges of the Old Port.
Today, the economy of Marseille is dominated by the New Port, which lies north of the Old Port, a commercial
container port and a transport port for the
Mediterranean sea. 100 million tons of
freight pass annually through the port, 60% of which is petroleum, making it number one in France and the Mediterranean and number three in Europe. However, its recent growth in container traffic is being stifled by the constant strikes and social upheaval.
[20] Petroleum refining and shipbuilding are the principal industries, but chemicals,
soap, glass,
sugar,
building materials,
plastics,
textiles, olive oil, and processed foods are also important products. Marseille is connected with the
Rhône via a
canal and thus has access to the extensive waterway network of France. Petroleum is shipped northward to the Paris basin by pipeline. The city also serves as France's leading centre of oil refinement.
Marseille is a major French centre for
trade and
industry,with excellent transportation infrastructure (roads, sea port and airport).
Marseille Provence Airport, is the fourth largest in France. It is the main arrival base for millions of tourists each year and serves a growing business community. All three
universities of Aix-Marseille - the
University of Provence, the
University of the Mediterranean and
Paul Cézanne University - are represented to varying degrees in both Marseille and
Aix-en-Provence, forming France's second largest research centre with 3,000 research scientists.
The Marseille region is home to thousands of companies, 90% of which are small businesses.
[21] Among the most famous ones are
CMA CGM, container-shipping giant;
Comex, world leader in sub-sea engineering and hydraulic systems;
Eurocopter Group, an
EADS company; Azur Promotel, an active
real estate development company;
La Provence
, the local
daily newspaper; L'
Olympique de Marseille, the famous
football club; RTM, Marseille's
public transport company; and Société Nationale Maritime Corse Méditerranée (SNCM), a major operator in passenger, vehicle and freight transportation in the Western Mediterranean.
In recent years, the city has also experienced a large growth in
service sector employment and a switch from
light manufacturing to a cultural,
high-tech economy. Marseille acts as a regional nexus for entertainment in the south of France and has a high concentration of museums, cinemas, theaters, clubs, bars, restaurants, fashion shops, hotels, and
art galleries, all geared towards a tourist economy.
In May 2005, the French financial magazine
L'Expansion
named Marseille the most dynamic of France's large cities, citing figures showing that 7,200 companies had been created in the city since 2000.
[22]
Employment
Unemployment in the economy fell from 20% in 1995 to 14% in 2004.
[23] However Marseille unemployment rate remains higher than the national average. In some parts of Marseille, youth unemployment is reported to be as high as 40%.
[24]
Administration
Marseille is divided into 16
municipal arrondissements, which are themselves informally divided into
quartiers
(111 in total). The arrondissements are regrouped in pairs, into 8 secteurs, each with a mayor and council (like the arrondissements
in Paris and
Lyon).
[25]
Municipal elections are held every six years and are carried out by secteur. There are 303 councillors in total, two thirds sitting in the secteur councils and one third in the city council.
thumb
From 1950 to the mid 1990s, Marseille was a
socialist and
communist stronghold. The socialist
Gaston Defferre was consecutively re-elected six times as Mayor of Marseille from
1953 until his death in
1986. He was succeeded by
Robert Vigouroux of the
RDSE.
Jean-Claude Gaudin of the right-wing
UMP was elected mayor in 1995. Gaudin won re-election in
2001 and
2008.
In recent years, the
Communist Party has lost most of its strength in the northern boroughs of the city, whereas the far-right
National Front has received significant support.
At the
last municipal election in
2008, Marseille was divided between the northern boroughs dominated by the left and the more affluent southern Marseille, dominated by the right, with the centre and eastern parts of the city as battlegrounds, allowing for a narrow re-election of the
UMP administration.
The cantons of Marseille :
Marseille is also divided in 25
cantons, each of them returning a member of the
General Council of the
Bouches-du-Rhône département.
Demographics
250 BC
| 1801
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| 1881
| 1911
| 1931
| 1946
| 1954
| 1962
| 1968
| 1975
| 1982
| 1990
| 1999
| 2006
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Immigration
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Because of its pre-eminence as a Mediterranean port, Marseille has always been one of the main gateway into France. This has attracted many immigrants and made Marseille a cosmopolitan
melting pot. By the end of the eighteenth century about half the population originated from elsewhere
[27] [28].
Economic conditions and political unrest in Europe and the rest of the world brought several other waves of immigrants during the twentieth century: Greeks and Italians started arriving at the end of the nineteenth century and in the first half of the 20th century, up to 40% of the city's population was of Italian origin;
[29] Russians in 1917; Armenians in 1915 and 1923; Spanish after 1936;
Berbers North Africans in the
inter-war period; Sub-saharan Africans after 1945; the
pieds-noirs from the former
French Algeria in 1962; and then from
Comoros. In 2006, it was reported that 70,000 city residents were considered to be of Maghrebian origin, mostly from Algeria. The second largest group in Marseille in terms of single nationalities were from the Comoros, amounting to some 45,000 people.
Currently, over one third of the population of Marseille can trace their roots back to Italy.
[30] Marseille also has the largest
Corsican and second-largest
Armenian population of France. Other significant communities include North Africans
Berbers (39% of the total population),
Turks,
Comorians,
Chinese, and
Vietnamese.
[31]
The main religions practised in Marseille are
Catholicism (600,000),
Islam (between 150,000 and 200,000),
Armenian Apostolic Church (80,000),
Judaism (80,000, making Marseille the third largest urban
Jewish community in Europe),
Protestantism (20,000),
Eastern Orthodoxy (10,000) and
Buddhism (3,000).
[32]
Culture
thumb
Marseille has been designated as
European Capital of Culture
in 2013.
Marseille is a city that is proud of its differences from the rest of France. Today it is a regional centre for culture and entertainment with an important
opera house, historical and maritime museums, five art galleries and numerous cinemas, clubs, bars and restaurants.
Marseille has a large number of theatres, including la Criée, le Gymnase and the Théâtre Toursky. There is also an extensive
arts centre in La Friche, a former match factory behind the St-Charles station. The Alcazar, until the 1960s a well known
music-hall and
variety theatre, has recently been completely remodelled behind its original facade and now houses the central municipal library.
Marseille has also been important in literature and the arts. It has been the birth place and home of many French writers and poets, including
Victor Gélu,
Valère Bernard,
Pierre Bertas,
Edmond Rostand and
André Roussin. The small port of
l'Estaque on the far end of the Bay of Marseille became a favourite haunt for artists, including
Auguste Renoir,
Paul Cézanne (who frequently visited from his home in
Aix),
Georges Braque and
Raoul Dufy.
The most commonly used
tarot deck comes from Marseille; it is called the
Tarot de Marseille
, and was used to play the local variant of
tarocchi before it became used in
cartomancy. Another local tradition is the making of
santons, small hand-crafted figurines for the traditional
Provençal Christmas
creche. Since 1803, starting on the last Sunday of November, there has been a Santon Fair in Marseille; it is currently held in the Cours d'Estienne d'Orves, a large square off the Vieux-Port.
thumb
Opera
Marseille's main cultural attraction was, since its creation at the end of the 18th century and until the late 1970s, the
Opéra. Located near the Old Port and the Canebière, at the very heart of the city, its
architectural style was comparable to the classical trend found in other opera houses built at the same time in
Lyon and
Bordeaux. In 1919, a fire almost completely destroyed the building, leaving only the stone
colonnade and
peristyle from the original facade.
[33] [34] The classical facade was restored and the opera house reconstructed in a predominantly
Art Deco style, as the result of a major competition. Currently the Opéra de Marseille stages 6 or 7 operas each year.
Since 1972 the Ballet national de Marseille has performed at the opera house; its director from its foundation to 1998 was
Roland Petit.
Hip hop music
Marseille is also well known in France for its
hip hop music. Bands like
IAM originated from Marseille and initiated the
rap music phenomena in France. Other known groups include
Fonky Family,
3ème Oeil, and
Psy4 de la rime.
Gastronomy
thumb.
thumb in
olive oil with
ratatouille and
saffron rice
- Pastis, an alcoholic beverage made with aniseed and spice, the "Guinness of Southern France
", it is an institution seen on every table
- Fougasse, typical Provençal bread
- Aïoli, a sauce made from raw garlic, lemon juice, eggs and olive oil, served with boiled fish, hard boiled eggs and cooked vegetables [35]
- Tapenade, a paste made from capers, chopped olives and olive oil (sometimes anchovies may be added)
- Bouillabaisse, a fish soup containing assorted shellfish, fish and vegetables, served with rouille, toasted bread (croûtes
) and often grated cheese [36] [37]
- Anchoïade, a paste made from anchovies, garlic, black olives and olive oil, served with raw vegetables
- Panisse, a pastry made from chickpea flour
- Navette, a small hard biscuit in the shape of a boat, flavoured with orange blossom [38]
- Bourride, a fish dish made with monkfish, mayonnaise and a vegetable brunoise [39]
- Pieds-paquets, a dish prepared from pig's trotters, sheep or pork tripe and lard
Films set in Marseille
Marseille has been the setting for many films, produced mostly in France or
Hollywood.
- Marius
(1931)
- Passage to Marseille
(1944)
- Fanny
(1961)
- Borsalino
(1970)
- The French Connection
(1971)
- The Marseille Contract
(1974)
- French Connection II
(1975)
- La Lune dans le caniveau
(1983)
thumb
- 37°2 le matin
(1986)
- Trois places pour le 26
(1988)
- Roselyne et les lions
(1989)
- My Father's Glory
(1990)
- Un, deux, trois, soleil
(1993)
- Bye-Bye
(1995)
- Marius et Jeannette
(1997)
- Taxi
(1998)
- Comme un aimant
(2000)
- Baise-moi
(2000)
- Taxi 2
(2000)
- The Bourne Identity
(2002)
- Count of Monte Cristo
(2002)
- The Transporter
(2002)
- Gomez & Tavarès
(2003)
- Love Actually
(2003)
- Taxi 3
(2003)
- Plus belle la vie
(TV - 2004-2009)
- Taxi 4
(2006)
- The Transporter 3
(2008)
- Traitor
(2008)
- MR 73
(2008)
Marseille in television
Star Trek: Voyager mentions Marseille in several episodes. It is said to be a favourite city of
Lt. Tom Paris who was "spending his time, drinking and playing pool in Sandrine's, a (fictional) waterfront bar."
Main sights
Central Marseille
thumb
thumb
Marseille is listed as a major centre of art and history. The city has many museums and galleries and there are many ancient buildings and churches of historical interest. Most of the attractions of Marseille (including shopping areas) are located in the 1st, 2nd, 6th and 7th arrondissements.
These include:
[40] [41]
- The Old Port or Vieux-Port, the main harbour and marina of the city. It is guarded by two massive forts (Fort St Nicolas and Fort Saint Jean) and is one of the main places to eat in the city. Dozens of cafés line the waterfront. The Quai des Belges at the end of the harbour is the site of the daily fish market. Much of the northern quayside area was rebuilt by the architect Fernand Pouillon after its destruction by the Nazis in 1943.
- The Phare de Sainte Marie, a lighthouse on the inlet to the Old Port.
- La Vieille Charité in the Panier
, an architecturally significant building designed by the Puget brothers. The central baroque chapel is situated in a courtyard lined with arcaded galleries. Originally built as an alms house, it is now home to an archeological museum and a gallery of African and Asian art, as well as bookshops and a café.
- The Centre Bourse and the adjacent rue St Ferreol district (including rue du Rome and rue Paradis), the main shopping area in central Marseille.
- The Musée d'Histoire, the Marseille historical museum, located in the Centre Bourse. It contains records of the Greek and Roman history of Marseille as well as the best preserved hull of a 6th century boat in the world. Ancient remains from the Hellenic port are displayed in the adjacent archeological gardens, the Jardin des Vestiges
.
- The Palais de la Bourse, a 19th century building housing the chamber of commerce, the first such institution in France. It also contains a small museum, charting the maritime and commercial history of Marseille, as well as a separate collection of models of ships.
- The Musée de la Mode, a museum of modern fashion which displays over 2000 designs from the last 30 years.
- The Musée Cantini, a museum of modern art near the Palais de Justice. It houses artworks associated with Marseille as well as several works by Picasso.
- The Pierre Puget park.
- The Hôtel-Dieu, a former hospital in the Panier
, currently being transformed into an InterContinental hotel.
- The Abbey of Saint-Victor, one of the oldest places of Christian worship in Europe. Its early fifth century crypt and catacombs occupy the site of a Hellenic burial ground, later used for Christian martyrs and venerated ever since. Continuing a medieval tradition, [42] every year at Candlemas a Black Madonna from the crypt is carried in procession along rue Sainte for a blessing from the archbishop, followed by a mass and the distribution of "navettes" and green votive candles.
- The Hotel de Ville (City Hall), a baroque building from the seventeenth century.
- The Musée du Vieux Marseille, housed in the 16th century Maison Diamantée, describing everyday life in Marseille from the eighteenth century onwards.
- The Cathedral of Sainte-Marie-Majeure or La Major, founded in the fourth century, enlarged in the eleventh century and completely rebuilt in the second half of the 19th century by the architects Léon Vaudoyer and Jacques Henri Esperandieu. The present day cathedral is a gigantic edifice in Romano-Byzantine style. A romanesque transept, choir and altar survive from the older medieval cathedral, spared from complete destruction only as a result of public protests at the time.
- The 12th century parish church of Saint-Laurent and adjoining 17th century chapel of Sainte-Catherine, on the quayside near the Cathedral, recently reopened after restoration. [43]
Outside of central Marseille
thumb of Sugiton in the 9th arrondissement of Marseille.
- The nineteenth century Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, built by the architect Esperandieu, is an enormous Romano-Byzantine basilica in the hills to the south of the Old Port. The terrace offers spectacular panoramic views of Marseille and its surroundings.
- The Stade Vélodrome, the home stadium of the city's main football team, Olympique de Marseille.
- The Gare Saint-Charles, the main railway station. Below it is the royal Porte d'Aix (1784-1837), a giant triumphal arch, at the crossroads to Aix.
- The Unité d'Habitation, an influential experimental building designed by the Swiss architect Le Corbusier in the late forties
- The Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Natural History Museum are housed in the two wings of the nineteenth century Palais Longchamp, also designed by Esperandieu, located in the Parc Longchamp. Built on a grand scale, this italianate colonnaded building rises up behind a vast monumental fountain with cascading waterfalls. The jeux d'eau marks and masks the entry point of the Canal de Provence into Marseille.
- The Grobet-Labadié museum, opposite to the Palais Longchamp, houses an exceptional collection of European objets d'art and old musical instruments.
- The Parc Borély, a park off the Bay of Marseille with the Jardin botanique E.M. Heckel, a botanical garden.
- The Musée de Faience, a ceramics museum in the Chateau Pastré near the parc Borely.
- The parc Chanot, an exhibition centre.
- The Pharo Gardens, a park with views of the Mediterranean and the Old Port.
- The Corniche, a picturesque waterfront road between the Old Port and the Bay of Marseille.
- The Museum of Contemporary Art, devoted to American and European art from the 1960s to the present day.
- The beaches at the Prado, Pointe Rouge, les Goudes, Callelongue, and le Prophète.
- The Musée du Terroir Marseillais in Chateau-Gombert, devoted to provencal crafts and traditions.
- The callanques and Marseilleveyre, a wild mountainous coastal area of outstanding natural beauty, accessible from Callelongue, Luminy, Sormiou, Morgiou and Cassis.
- The islands of the Frioul archipelago in the Bay of Marseille, accessible by ferry from the Old Port. The prison of Château d'If was the setting for the Count of Monte Cristo, the novel by Alexandre Dumas. The neighbouring islands of Ratonneau and Pomègues are joined by a man-made breakwater. The site of a former garrison and quarantine hospital, these islands are also of interest for their marine wildlife.
Transport
thumb
The city is served by an
international airport,
Marseille Provence Airport, located in
Marignane. The airport has two terminals. Terminal one, the main terminal of the airport contains halls 1,2,3 and 4 and serves as a base for French and international arrivals and departures. The newer terminal, referred to as MP2, is used for low-cost flights arriving and departing from Europe and North Africa. A shuttle coach system operates between the airport and the railway station,
Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles.
An extensive network of motorways connects Marseille to the north and west (
A7), Aix-en-Provence in the north (
A51), Toulon (
A50) and the
French Riviera (
A8) to the east.
Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles is Marseille's main
railway station. It operates direct regional services to
Aix-en-Provence,
Briancon,
Toulon,
Avignon,
Nice,
Montpellier,
Toulouse,
Bordeaux,
Nantes, etc. Gare Saint-Charles is also one of the main terminal stations for the
TGV in the south of France making Marseille reachable in three hours from Paris (a distance of over 750 km) and just over one and a half hours from Lyon. There are also direct TGV lines to
Lille,
Brussels,
Nantes,
Genève and
Strasbourg.
thumb
thumb
There is a long distance
bus station, still under construction, adjacent to Gare Saint-Charles with destinations mostly to other
Bouches-du-Rhône towns. Temporarily buses to
Aix-en-Provence depart from the nearby
Porte d'Aix. Other buses to
Cassis,
La Ciotat and
Aubagne depart from Place Castellane.
Marseille has a large
ferry terminal, the , with services to
Corsica,
Sardinia,
Algeria and
Tunisia. A free ferry service on a quite different scale operates between the two opposite quays of the Old Port.
Marseille itself is connected by the
Marseille Métro train system operated by the
Régie des transports de Marseille
(RTM). It consists of two lines: Line 1 (blue) between Castellane and La Rose opened in
1977 and Line 2 (red) between Sainte-Marguerite-Dromel and Bougainville opened between
1984 and
1987. An extension of the Line 1 from Castellane to La Timone was completed in 1992. The Métro system operates on a turnstile system, with tickets purchased at the nearby adjacent automated booths. Both lines of the Métro intersect at Gare Saint-Charles and Castellane.
An extensive
bus network serves the city and suburbs of Marseille. The first phase of a new
tramway,
[44] going eastwards from the port towards St Barnabé, was opened in July 2007.
As in many other French cities, a short-term bicycle hire scheme nicknamed "Le vélo", free for trips of less than half an hour, has recently been put in place by the city council.
[45]
Sport
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The city boasts a wide variety of sports facilities and teams. The most popular team is the city's
football club,
Olympique de Marseille, which was the
UEFA Champions League winner in
1993 and finalist of the
UEFA Cup in
1999 and
2004. The club had a history of success under then-owner
Bernard Tapie. The club's home, the
Stade Vélodrome, which can sit 60,000 people,also functions for other local sports, as well as the
national rugby team. Stade Velodrome hosted a number of games during the
2007 Rugby World Cup. The local rugby team is
Marseille Provence XV.
Sailing is a major sport in Marseille. The winds can blow from different directions and allow interesting regattas in the warm waters of the Mediterranean. Most of the time it can be windy while the sea remains smooth enough to allow sailing. It was considered as a possible site for 2007
Americas Cup.
[46] Marseille is also a place for other
water sports such as
windsurfing and
powerboating. Marseille has three
golf courses. The city has dozens of gyms and several puplic
swimming pools. Running is also popular in many of Marseille's parks such as Le Pharo and Le Jardin Pierre Puget.
Births and deaths in Marseille
thumb
thumb
thumb in
Dachau concentration camp
Marseille was the birthplace of:
- Pytheas (4th century BC) Greek merchant, geographer and explorer
- Antonin Artaud (1897-1948), author
- Ariane Ascaride (born 1954), actress
- Maurice Béjart (1927-2007), ballet choreographer
- Jean-Henry Gourgaud, aka. "Dugazon" (1746-1809), actor
- Désirée Clary (1777-1860), wife of King Carl XIV Johan of Sweden, and therefore Queen Desirée
or Queen Desideria of Sweden
- Adolphe Thiers (1797-1877), first president of the Third Republic
- Étienne Joseph Louis Garnier-Pages (1801-1841), politician
- Honoré Daumier (1808-1879), caricaturist and painter
- Joseph Autran (1813-1877), poet
- Charles-Joseph-Eugene de Mazenod (1782-1861), bishop of Marseille and Founder of the Missionary Oblates of Mary Immaculate.
- Marius Petipa (1818-1910), ballet choreographer
- Olivier Émile Ollivier (1825-1913), statesman
- Joseph Pujol, aka. "Le Pétomane" (1857-1945), entertainer
- Pavlos Melas (1870-1904) Greek army officer
- Paul Mauriat (1925-2006), orchestra leader, composer
- Edmond Rostand (1868-1918), poet and dramatist
- Vincent Scotto (1876-1952), guitarist, songwriter [47]
- Darius Milhaud (1892-1974) [48] [49]
- Fernandel (1903-1971), actor
- Éliane Browne-Bartroli (Eliane Plewman, 1917-1944), French Resistance, Croix de Guerre
- Louis Jourdan (born 1919), actor
- Jean-Pierre Rampal (1922-2000), flûtiste
- Régine Crespin (1927-2007), opera singer
- André di Fusco (1932-2001), known as André Pascal, song writer, composer
- Georges Chappe (born 1944), cyclist
- Jean-Claude Izzo (1945-2000), author
- Eric Cantona (born 1966), Manchester United and French national team football player
- Patrick Fiori (born 1969), singer
- Marc Panther (born 1970), member of the popular Japanese rock band globe
- Zinedine Zidane (born 1972), professional football player and former captain of the French national team
- Romain Barnier (born 1976), freestyle swimmer
- Sébastien Grosjean (born 1978), tennis player
- Mathieu Flamini (born 1984), football player
- Rémy Di Gregorio (born 1985), cyclist
The following personalities died in Marseille:
- French poet Arthur Rimbaud on November 10, 1891.
- King Alexander I of Yugoslavia was assassinated on October 9, 1934 in Marseille along with French Foreign Minister Louis Barthou.
International relations
Twin towns — Sister cities
Marseille is currently officially
twinned with thirteen cities:
[50]''
- Abidjan, Ivory Coast.
- Antwerp, Belgium.
- Copenhagen, Denmark.
- Dakar, Senegal.
- Genoa, Italy.
- Glasgow, United Kingdom (Scotland) [51]
- Haifa, Israel.
|
- Hamburg, Germany.
- Kobe, Japan.
- Marrakech, Morocco.
- Odessa, Ukraine.
- Piraeus, Greece.
- Shanghai, China.
- Yerevan, Armenia (since 1992)
[52]
|
Partner cities
In addition Marseille has signed various types of formal agreements of cooperation with 31 cities all over the world:
[53]
- Agadir, Morocco.
- Alexandria, Egypt.
- Algiers, Algeria.
- Bamako, Mali.
- Barcelona, Spain.
- Beirut, Lebanon.
- Cape Town, South Africa.
- Casablanca, Morocco.
- Gdansk, Poland.(since 1992)
[54]
- Istanbul, Turkey.
|
- Izmit, Turkey.
- Jerusalem, Israel.
- Limassol, Cyprus.
- Lome, Togo.
- Lyon, France.
- Meknes, Morocco.
- Montevideo, Uruguay.
- N'Djamena, Chad.
- Nice, France.
- Nîmes, France.
|
- Nizhnevartovsk, Russia.
- Rabat, Morocco.
- Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina.
- Saratov, Russia. [55]
- Sousse, Tunisia.
- Thessaloniki, Greece.
- Tirana, Albania. [56]
- Tripoli, Libya.
- Tunis, Tunisia.
- Surabaya, Indonesia
|
Gallery
See also
- List of people from Marseille
- List of films set in Marseille
- Marseille Marine Fire Battalion
- Stade Vélodrome
- The Count of Monte Cristo
- Marseille soap
Footnotes
- GISS average monthly temperatures 1971 - 2000, Goddard Institute of Space Studies, Boulder, USA
- Weatherbase: Historical Weather for Marseille
- J. Buisson-Catil, I. Sénépart, ''Marseille avant Marseille. La fréquentation préhistorique du site''. ''Archéologia'', no. 435, July-August 2006, pages 28-31
- official press release of INRAP (institut national de recherches archéologiques preventives).
- Marius Dubois, Paul Gaffarel et J.-B. Samat, ''Histoire de Marseille '', Librairie P. Ruat, Marseille, 1913.
- Duchêne & Contrucci (2004).
- Hugh Johnson, ''Vintage: The Story of Wine'' pg 40. Simon and Schuster 1989
- The Catholic Encyclopedia, 1913. The martyrdom of St. Victor took place under the Roman emperor Maximian.
- The New Cambridge Medieval History
- The Sicilian Vespers: A History of the Mediterranean World in the Later Thirteenth Century
- Duchêne and Contrucci (2004), page 182.
- Duchene & Contrucci (2004), pages 160-161, 174. This commandry was a monastery belonging to the military religious order of the crusading Knights Hospitaller. Following Richard the Lionheart's visit in 1190 with the Anglo-Norman fleet during the third crusade, Marseille became a regular port of call for crusaders.
- Histoire de Marseille
- Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire
- Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire
- Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire
- Roger Duchêne and Jean Contrucci (2004), Chapter 24, ''La peste'', pages 360-378.
- The Jewish Community of Marseilles, France{{Dead link|date=May 2009}}
- UNESCO-MOST Programme
- Cours de comptes: Les ports de la Manche et de la Mer du Nord
- Official website of Marseille Metropole Provence
-
L'Expansion: Les Villes qui font bouger la France (in French)
- Interview
- Marseille - Rap - Music - New York Times
- Administration and composition of arrondissements (in French)
- le Splaf and Insee
- {{harvnb|Liauzu|1996}}
- {{harvnb|Duchene|Contrucci|2004}}
- Local0631EN:Quality0667EN
- Citoyenneté et intégration : Marseille, modèle d’intégration ?, report by Patrick Parodi, Académie d'Aix-Marseille.
- Diverse Marseille Spared in French Riots
- Marseille Espérance. Tous différents, tous Marseillais
- Opera in Genoa, Nice, Marseille, Montpellier, Barcelona
- Schmap Marseille Sights & Attractions - 6th arrond
- French Provincial Cooking
- French Provincial Cooking
- Real Stew
- Le Four des Navettes, manufacturers of navettes since 1781.
- Lulu's Provençal Table
- Provence
- Official website of the City of Marseille
- Candelmas at St Victor, Marseille Tourist Office
- St Laurent and St Catherine
- Official website of the Marseille tramway
- Website for Le vélo.
- Sailing to Success
- SCOTTO Opérettes Marseillaises Accord 4762107 RW]: Classical CD Reviews - November 2006 MusicWeb-International
- Darius Milhaud, Compositeur de Musique
- Ma Vie heureuse
- Marseille Official website - Twin Cities
- Although Scotland is not a sovereign nation, the country listed on the official homepage of Marseille is "Scotland".
- Yerevan Municipality - Sister Cities
- Agreements of cooperation (in French)
- Gdansk Official Website: 'Miasta partnerskie'
- Embassy of France and Russia - sister cities
- Twinning Cities: International Relations
References
- GISS average monthly temperatures 1971 - 2000, Goddard Institute of Space Studies, Boulder, USA
- Weatherbase: Historical Weather for Marseille
- J. Buisson-Catil, I. Sénépart, ''Marseille avant Marseille. La fréquentation préhistorique du site''. ''Archéologia'', no. 435, July-August 2006, pages 28-31
- official press release of INRAP (institut national de recherches archéologiques preventives).
- Marius Dubois, Paul Gaffarel et J.-B. Samat, ''Histoire de Marseille '', Librairie P. Ruat, Marseille, 1913.
- Duchêne & Contrucci (2004).
- Hugh Johnson, ''Vintage: The Story of Wine'' pg 40. Simon and Schuster 1989
- The Catholic Encyclopedia, 1913. The martyrdom of St. Victor took place under the Roman emperor Maximian.
- The New Cambridge Medieval History
- The Sicilian Vespers: A History of the Mediterranean World in the Later Thirteenth Century
- Duchêne and Contrucci (2004), page 182.
- Duchene & Contrucci (2004), pages 160-161, 174. This commandry was a monastery belonging to the military religious order of the crusading Knights Hospitaller. Following Richard the Lionheart's visit in 1190 with the Anglo-Norman fleet during the third crusade, Marseille became a regular port of call for crusaders.
- Histoire de Marseille
- Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire
- Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire
- Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire
- Roger Duchêne and Jean Contrucci (2004), Chapter 24, ''La peste'', pages 360-378.
- The Jewish Community of Marseilles, France{{Dead link|date=May 2009}}
- UNESCO-MOST Programme
- Cours de comptes: Les ports de la Manche et de la Mer du Nord
- Official website of Marseille Metropole Provence
-
L'Expansion: Les Villes qui font bouger la France (in French)
- Interview
- Marseille - Rap - Music - New York Times
- Administration and composition of arrondissements (in French)
- le Splaf and Insee
- {{harvnb|Liauzu|1996}}
- {{harvnb|Duchene|Contrucci|2004}}
- Local0631EN:Quality0667EN
- Citoyenneté et intégration : Marseille, modèle d’intégration ?, report by Patrick Parodi, Académie d'Aix-Marseille.
- Diverse Marseille Spared in French Riots
- Marseille Espérance. Tous différents, tous Marseillais
- Opera in Genoa, Nice, Marseille, Montpellier, Barcelona
- Schmap Marseille Sights & Attractions - 6th arrond
- French Provincial Cooking
- French Provincial Cooking
- Real Stew
- Le Four des Navettes, manufacturers of navettes since 1781.
- Lulu's Provençal Table
- Provence
- Official website of the City of Marseille
- Candelmas at St Victor, Marseille Tourist Office
- St Laurent and St Catherine
- Official website of the Marseille tramway
- Website for Le vélo.
- Sailing to Success
- SCOTTO Opérettes Marseillaises Accord 4762107 RW]: Classical CD Reviews - November 2006 MusicWeb-International
- Darius Milhaud, Compositeur de Musique
- Ma Vie heureuse
- Marseille Official website - Twin Cities
- Although Scotland is not a sovereign nation, the country listed on the official homepage of Marseille is "Scotland".
- Yerevan Municipality - Sister Cities
- Agreements of cooperation (in French)
- Gdansk Official Website: 'Miasta partnerskie'
- Embassy of France and Russia - sister cities
- Twinning Cities: International Relations